The View: Muir Woods

If you have never fallen in love with trees or ever wondered why JRR Tolkien created Treebeard and the Ents, then you have never been to Muir Woods.

“It is not wizardry, but a power far older. A power that walked the earth, ere elf sang or hammer rang.

 — Gandalf to Théoden in The Two Towers, “The Road to Isengard

Alternatively, you may watch Star Wars: Return of the Jedi and wonder, “How could Ewoks have lived in the woods?” Once again, Muir Woods has your answer. It is a magical place nestled between the Golden Gate Bridge, the Pacific Ocean, and some of the most expensive real estate in the nation. If you are willing the take the time to bathe in the trees, you will come out clean.

On a Bridge in Muir Woods (2004)
On a Bridge in Muir Woods (2024)

Muir Woods: The Cathedral of the Giants

If San Francisco is the heart of the Bay’s energy, Muir Woods is its lungs. Stepping into this grove is like walking into a cathedral built over a thousand years ago, where the pillars are 250-foot-tall redwoods and the only “music” is the sound of Redwood Creek and the occasional Pacific Wren.

Tall Trees in Muir Woods (2024)
Me with the Ladies in Muir Woods (2024)

But here’s the wild part: this entire forest almost became a puddle.

The “Close Call” History

Back in the early 1900s, a local water company had its eyes on this canyon. They wanted to dam Redwood Creek and turn this entire grove into a reservoir. Basically, these ancient giants were days away from being underwater.

Enter William Kent. He was a local guy with a deep appreciation for the journey who bought the land for $45,000 just to keep the loggers and the dam-builders out. When he donated it to the federal government in 1908, President Teddy Roosevelt wanted to name it after him. In a move that would make any modern influencer’s head spin, Kent refused. He insisted it be named after his friend John Muir, because Muir had done more for the wilderness than anyone alive.

Boys at Muir Woods Monument (2021)
Boys at Muir Woods Monument (2021)
Ladies at Muir Woods Monument (2024)
Ladies at Muir Woods Monument (2024)

The “Fog Drinkers” (The Facts)

The trees here are Coastal Redwoods (Sequoia sempervirens), and they are absolute engineering marvels.

  • Teamwork Roots: Even though they stand over 250 feet tall, their roots are surprisingly shallow—only about 6 to 12 feet deep. Instead of digging deep, they reach out sideways and interlock their roots with their neighbors. It’s a literal “I’ve got your back” system that keeps them standing through coastal storms.
  • Living on Mist: During the dry California summers, these trees actually “drink” the fog. They can pull up to 40% of their moisture directly from the air through their needles.
  • The “Immortal” Vibe: These aren’t the world’s widest trees (those are the Giant Sequoias in the Sierras), but they are the tallest. Some of the trees you’re walking past in Muir Woods were saplings when the Magna Carta was being signed.
Trees Close-up in Muir Woods (2024)
Trees Close-up in Muir Woods (2024)

The Temple of Peace

If you’re a history nerd, head straight for Cathedral Grove. In May 1945, delegates from all over the world were in San Francisco to draft the Charter for the United Nations. They took a break from the high-stakes politics to meet in this grove for a memorial service for President Franklin D. Roosevelt. They chose Muir Woods because they felt these ancient trees provided a “perspective and sense of time” that no city building ever could.

United Nations in Muir Woods (1945)
United Nations in Muir Woods (1945)

Pinchot Tree

The Pinchot Tree (dedicated to Gifford Pinchot) is arguably the most famous individual tree in Muir Woods because it is the largest tree in the monument by volume. It stands roughly 245 feet tall with an incredible girth of over 28 feet.

  • The Legacy: The tree was dedicated on May 5, 1910, to honor Gifford Pinchot, who was the very first chief of the U.S. Forest Service. He was a close friend of William Kent (the guy who bought the woods to save them) and was a major player in getting Muir Woods protected as a National Monument.
  • The Location: You’ll find it in Founders Grove, which is located right along the main boardwalk trail, typically between Bridge 1 and Bridge 2.
  • The Railing: Those wooden railings are there to protect the “duff” (the soft forest floor) because redwood roots are incredibly shallow. Even for a giant like the Pinchot Tree, the roots only go about 6 to 12 feet deep, so the boardwalk keeps the millions of visitors from accidentally compacting the soil and suffocating the tree.
Boys at the Pinchot Tree (Height: 245 ft, Girth: 28 ft) in Muir Woods (2021)
Boys at the Pinchot Tree (Height: 245 ft, Girth: 28 ft) in Muir Woods (2021)
Ladies at the Pinchot Tree (Height: 245 ft, Girth: 28 ft) in Muir Woods (2024)
Ladies at the Pinchot Tree (Height: 245 ft, Girth: 28 ft) in Muir Woods (2024)

Planning Ahead: A Must

If you are planning a visit, your first stop needs to be the Official NPS Muir Woods website to check for any trail closures or special events.

But the most important thing to remember is this: The parking lot is a trap if you don’t plan ahead. You cannot just wing it. Parking and shuttle reservations are mandatory, and they will absolutely turn you away at the gate if you don’t have a pre-paid spot. Head over to GoMuirWoods.com to book your parking or shuttle pass weeks in advance. I recommend the shuttle for the ease but fair warning, it is a WILD ride up those Bay Area hills.

Digital Detox (Forced): There is zero cell service in the woods. Download your parking pass or shuttle ticket before you leave the hotel. Once you cross that bridge into the park, you’re officially off the grid. Put your phones in low power mode as soon as the shuttle leaves and enjoy the peace. You may never leave.

Me with the Ladies in Muir Woods (2024)
Me with Wife & Daughter in Muir Woods (2024)

What is to Come

As a reminder, this is one blog post in a thirteen part blog series on this journey. Here is the outline with links to the other blogs.

  1. The Greatest Trip in the World
  2. Hang Off the Cable Car: San Francisco
  3. Go to Prison with Us: Alcatraz
  4. The View: Muir Woods (this blog)
  5. Focal Point: California Academy of Sciences
  6. Behind the Lens: San Francisco Zoo
  7. Road Trip to Yosemite
  8. Peachy: Ramos Country Corner
  9. Earthy: Mountain Sage Coffee
  10. Yosemite Overview: lodging, food, hikes, nighttime
  11. Triumphant: Half Dome Hike
  12. Wanding in Yosemite
  13. Sweeping: Grand Tour Hike (Four Mile Trail -> Panorama Trail)

Some more photos of Ents… I mean magical trees. Most of these images can be seen in more detail in my Gallery.

Tall Trees in Muir Woods (2024)
Tall Trees in Muir Woods (2024)
Canopy in Muir Woods (2024)
Boys Amongst the Trees in Muir Woods (2021)
Funky Tree in Muir Woods (2024)

Until then, see you next time,


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