Of all the iconic places in San Francisco to visit, none is more notorious than the famous Alcatraz prison. Once the most feared prison in the United States, it is now one of the most well known bucket list tours on the West Coast. Located in the bay off of Pier 39 – the lively sounds and smells used to torture prisoners back in its day, Alcatraz stands as both a reminder of a dark past and yet an exciting tale of legends – and yes, I’m talking about the infamous Phil Hartman scene in So I Married An Axe Murderer.

“Break the rules and you go to prison. Break the prison rules, and you go to Alcatraz.” — Anonymous (unofficial motto of the prison)

Alcatraz Island is more than just a bunch of jail cells though. It has some of the most gorgeous views of the San Francisco Bay as well.

The Rock: A History

While I’m not going to give you a detailed history, here are some fun tidbits about Alcatraz to get your appetite wet before visiting.

The Rock in the Bay: Fast Facts

When you are standing down at Fisherman’s Wharf, looking out past the sea lions, it is almost impossible to ignore the ominous chunk of rock sitting out in the middle of the San Francisco Bay. Alcatraz Island is famous for being America’s most inescapable fortress, but its history is wildly fascinating long before it ever housed a federal penitentiary.

Here are a few quick facts to chew on before you board the ferry:

• What’s in a name? “Alcatraz” actually comes from the Spanish word alcatraces, meaning pelicans. Before it was a prison, it was essentially just a massive bird sanctuary.
• Notorious Neighbors: During its 29 years as a federal prison, it housed some of the most famous gangsters in American history, including Al Capone, “Machine Gun” Kelly, and “Birdman” Robert Stroud.
• The Swim: The island sits exactly 1.25 miles off the coast of San Francisco. The water is freezing, the currents are notoriously violent, and yes—they used to tell the inmates the bay was filled with man-eating sharks just to keep them from getting any bright ideas.
• The Occupation: From 1969 to 1971, the abandoned prison was famously occupied by a group called the Indians of All Tribes, a pivotal moment in the Native American civil rights movement. You can still see the red graffiti on the water tower today!

The Greatest Escape (June 1962)

You can’t write about Alcatraz without talking about the ultimate “enjoying the journey” travel story—even if the journey was an illegal prison break. In June of 1962, inmates Frank Morris and brothers John and Clarence Anglin pulled off the most famous escape in American history.

It is a story of incredible, patient inefficiency. Over the course of six months, they used stolen spoons to slowly widen the ventilation ducts in their cells. On the night of the escape, they placed insanely realistic papier-mâché heads (complete with real hair swept up from the barbershop floor) in their beds to fool the night guards. They climbed up to the roof, slid down a pipe, and inflated a makeshift raft glued together from 50 stolen raincoats.

Did they survive the brutal swim across the bay? The FBI officially says they drowned, but bodies were never found, and rumors of them living out their days in South America have circulated for decades. When you walk through the cell block, you can actually look into their exact cells and see the fake grates they built. It is wild!

How to Actually Get There (Without Stealing a Raincoat)

Please, learn from my mistakes here: You cannot just show up at the pier on a Saturday and expect to buy a ticket. Alcatraz is one of the most popular attractions in the country, and tickets routinely sell out weeks (sometimes months) in advance.

The only official ferry provider for the island is Alcatraz City Cruises. Do not buy scalped tickets from random guys near the Wharf. You will leave from Pier 33, and the ferry ride itself gives you some of the best views of the Golden Gate Bridge you’ll ever see (assuming the fog is low).

Choosing Your Ticket Option

When you go to book on the Alcatraz City Cruises site, you have a few different ways to experience the island. Every single ticket includes the award-winning audio tour (which is narrated by actual former guards and inmates—it is incredible).

The Behind The Scenes Tour: For the true history nerds. This is a much smaller, longer tour led by experts that takes you deep into the hidden, restricted areas of the prison.

The Day Tour: The classic experience. This is around $50 for adults and gives you the ferry ride and as much time as you want to explore the cellhouse and the island grounds during the day.

The Night Tour: If you want things a little spookier. The night tour takes you to the island after dark and includes special guided programs and access to areas that are locked up during the day.

My Thoughts on Alcatraz

Go see Alcatraz. It is an interesting journey into an iconic part of the American landscape of our history. But don’t let the damp, dark, gloomy prison or it’s history get to you. Enjoy the sun outside on the island, have some fun to lighten up the darkness inside. We certainly did!

We loved our experience – not just the prison – but the beauty of the island. Here are some more views of Alcatraz Island and San Francisco Bay I captured along our journey. Beauty is everywhere we look – if we are willing to see it.

What is to Come

As a reminder, this is one blog post in a thirteen part blog series on this journey. Here is the outline with links to the other blogs.

1. The Greatest Trip in the World
2. Hang Off the Cable Car: San Francisco
3. Go to Prison with Us: Alcatraz (this blog)
4. The View: Muir Woods
5. Focal Point: California Academy of Sciences
6. Behind the Lens: San Francisco Zoo
7. Road Trip to Yosemite
8. Peachy: Ramos Country Corner
9. Earthy: Mountain Sage Coffee
10. Yosemite Overview: lodging, food, hikes, nighttime
11. Triumphant: Half Dome Hike
12. Wanding in Yosemite
13. Sweeping: Grand Tour Hike (Four Mile Trail -> Panorama Trail)